Haircare products are trending, however there aren’t that many natural hair-styling products on the market yet. So, it is a very exciting niche to explore if you are thinking of starting a natural haircare brand. If you want to discover what’s in vogue, head over to our post on Top Natural Haircare Trends.
Hair-styling products are so popular that most of us – both men and women – have at least one type of styling product in our bathroom cabinet. One of the most popular, versatile hair-styling products is the hair wax as with a quick lick of your fingers it can instantly create a style or maintain stray or unruly hair. It is also a good product to make if you are starting to formulate natural haircare.
Before we give you our hair wax formulation, let’s just mention the many different types of hair-styling products on the market that you can research. Many sport colourful names such as hair gel, putty, clay, fibre, mud, pomade, cream, paste and more. If you’re interested in formulating products like these, take a look at our Diploma in Organic Haircare Formulation.
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In this post, we offer an amazing natural hair wax formulation using some deeply nourishing African butters and oils. First, let’s look at some of the questions you need to ask yourself before formulating any hair-styling product.
When you are browsing the shelves in your supermarket, hairdresser or barber’s shop, the choice of hair-styling products is endless. It can be very challenging to know which is most suited to your hair and also what each type of product does given the confusing list of names for styling products. You need to ask the same questions if you are thinking of making your own natural haircare products either for yourself or as part of a brand range.
Before formulating, one of the first things you need to ask yourself is what kind of formulation you are going to make. Basically, there are three options:
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Is your target customer male or female, or are you going for a genderless product? Is it intended for short, medium or long hair? Do you want your product to give minimum, medium or maximum hold to the hair? Do you want to have a glossy finish or a matte effect? About hair wax products
Many hair-styling products are referred to as a wax (not always correctly), as it is the most well-known term. Hair wax is also one of the most popular hair styling products for daily use because it gives a good hold to the hair, and structure and definition too.
It is very versatile because it is ideal for short up to medium-long hair and can create different hair styles from a ruffled, ‘messy’ hair look, to soft spikes as well as a kind of fluffy, just-out-of-bed look. It isn’t suited to a slicked-back or longer hair. Hair wax can be matte or glossy, depending on the choice of ingredients. The product itself is usually quite dry and hard.
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Water based (mainstream brands usually use synthetic copolymers for this kind of product); and oil based: mostly based on waxes, oils and butters, which presents a perfect opportunity to make a natural version.
Dab some of the product onto the palm of your hand and warm it up slightly. Then, start at the root of your hair spreading it until you have the look you want to have that day. For more hold, use it on wet hair; for less hold use it on dry hair.
In our formulation, we are going to make an all-natural and vegan hair wax in the form of an anhydrous balm. We are using some key natural, African butters and oils among our ingredients that are nourishing and also readily available to most formulators.
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Depending on the climate where you live, you may need to change the hold and consistency of this hair wax formulation. You can do this by adjusting the wax-to-butter/oil ratios and perhaps swapping some ingredients for others so it suits your needs. Research your butters and waxes to choose those with the desired melting points to create a hair wax that is stable in your climate.
In our method, we give you two options that you see in our photos. You can choose to make a solid, traditional hair wax or a lighter, whipped version. With either option, you will find this hair wax formulation:
Gives hold to short up to medium-short hair; Gives volume in a natural way for a nice thick effect; Is easy to apply, and leaves no greasy feeling afterwards on your hands after you wash them; Has a soft feeling that gives your hair a healthy look without being too greasy, so you won’t look as if you haven’t washed your hair for weeks; and while effective, it is also easy to wash off, so you don’t need half a bottle of a clarifying shampoo to remove it.
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Each ingredient has been chosen carefully to ensure this clay wax is multi-functional as well as being an effective styling product that imparts benefits to the hair and scalp. Let’s take a look at the main ingredients to explain this further.
This wax helps adjust the viscosity and hardness of the product. It is a soft wax with a melting point between 45-55°C. It acts as a fixative to hold and style the hair. It is easy to wash off without leaving bits and greasiness. It has excellent holding properties in hair styling products, adds shine and does not impart stickiness.
This is a hard wax with a melting point between 79-85°C and used to adjust the viscosity and stiffness of the product. It offers a matte effect and helps improve the product’s stability at high temperatures. It is a fixative, holding the hair in place and giving hold also to your styling product. It too is easy to wash off without leaving bits and greasiness.
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Shea is a sustainable butter mainly produced in Ghana. It is soft and the unrefined version has an ivory colour and a typical shea scent (which can be very nutty and not to everyone’s liking. Use the refined version if you don’t like the natural scent).
Unrefined shea butter contains many fatty acids such as oleic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, alfa-linolenic acid (ALA), linolenic acid (LA), behenic acid, and palmitic acid. This unique fatty acid profile coupled with the butter’s high level of non-saponifiables, makes it a highly-effective emollient. It is especially beneficial for very dry skin and hair as it improves elasticity and has repair qualities. It is excellent to use to care for ànd style dry, damaged, brittle, frizzy and split-end hair as it restores shine and beauty to the hair. Shea nourishes the hair fibres and has long been used to enhance dry and also Afro-type hair.
We chose a sustainable coconut oil that is also a product often sourced from Ghana. It is a semi-solid carrier oil; the unrefined version has a snow-white colour and a typical tropical coco scent. It is one of the very few carrier oils that can penetrate the hair strand. Coconut oil contains a high percentage of lauric acid and this has a high affinity to the proteins in the hair. It also has a very low molecular weight so it can penetrate the hair cortex itself which helps it act to prevent the loss of protein from the hair. It also makes the hair more resistant to mechanical damage like combing.
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Coconut oil is perfect for dry hair or hair that needs extra moisture and is excellent for curly, frizzy, dry, lifeless, dull hair, split ends and to care for Afro hair. It nourishes and gives vitality to hair, smoothing the hair fibres making it more manageable, detangled and shiny.
Unrefined cocoa butter is sourced from East Africa and is a hard butter; the unrefined version has an ivory colour and an amazing chocolate scent. It nourishes, restores and gives vitality to dry hair. It is protective and helps prevent dehydration of your hair.
Again, we chose the unrefined version of mango butter which mostly originates in East Africa. It is a soft butter; the unrefined version is pale white and has a faint sweetish scent. It is nourishing and softening and strengthens the hair cuticle giving a natural, healthy shine to your hair. Mango butter is an excellent emollient repairing and softening the hair fibres which means it helps prevent split ends. For this reason it is ideal for dry, brittle, damaged, dull and lifeless hair as well as frizzy hair, and to care for long hair.
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Kombo butter, also known as the “Africa nutmeg”, is a soft butter with a dark brown to an almost black colour comparable to that of strong coffee. It can leave stains if you use too much, and has a typical earthy, smoky scent which may take some time to get used to. It is high in myristoleic acid. Kombo butter can help prevent hair loss and is very rich in soothing and regenerative, active components that can improve the condition of the scalp
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