ISLAMABAD (AFP) - Nails are buffed, blackheads scrubbed and coffee sipped to the sound of clipping scissors inside the Men's salon in Pakistan's capital Islamabad, where a growing number of male patrons are set on revamping their style.
Deeply conservative Pakistan has strict notions of masculinity where men are often expected to be austere and flamboyant styling is to be avoided.
While women in urban Pakistan have long enjoyed access to the care of beauticians and stylists, expensive facials and mani-pedis for men are becoming more common as disposable incomes in the nation's swelling middle class grow - per capita income jumped by 6.4 per cent in 2017.
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A vibrant social media culture has also fuelled the desire to be selfie-ready at any time, with influencers like Adnan Malik and Osman Khalid Butt attracting hundreds of thousands of followers online with their fashion-conscious posts.
At Tauseeq Haider's Men's salon, customers usually fork out a minimum of 1, 400 rupees (US$12.60) for a visit - a far cry from the 200 rupees spent at traditional barber shops.
Senior citizens, bureaucrats, they don't feel ashamed of saying that I need a facial, massage, my nails need to be done, please suggest what should I get, he adds.
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In rural Pakistan, men have traditionally taken their fashion tips from Islamic dictates, with the Koran specifying the length of beard and moustache along with hygiene guidelines.
But times are changing fast in the rapidly developing South Asian nation, with social media setting and wrecking trends in urban centres at the speed of a swipe.
According to Lebanese salon owner Michael Kanaan, who has been based in Pakistan for more than a decade, rising wages and greater exposure to global culture is fanning the burgeoning demand.
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The Pakistan male is becoming more metrosexual. It is all due to the internet and the age of satellites and and TVs, says Kanaan.
Economist Minhajul Haque agrees, saying Pakistani men are also subjected to a new slew of online advertising campaigns that have reinforced the trend.
Humayun Khan, 49, says he is fine with spending more money to look good and his wife is supportive of the new passion.
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I... get my nails done, get my haircut, get my facial and I am done for the day and after two weeks I come again, he says.
Stylist Ghulfam Ghori says Pakistani men are also now more concerned with skincare, opting for blackhead removal, acne treatments and even the occasional brush with makeup before major events like weddings.
Men are very conscious about their skin now... and consider it essential to get facials. Previously it was not common, but now the trend is increasing among men to get themselves groomed, says Ghori.
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Zafar Bakhtawari, chairman of the D. Watson Group, one of Pakistan's biggest pharmacy chains, explains: I can say there is a revolution coming up in Pakistan in the male psyche that they are becoming very much conscious about their beauty, about their face, about their hair, about their dress and it's a great revolution.After a series of disappointments due to my curly hair, I started dodging hair stylists the same way Donald Trump evades the taxman. My friends, on the other hand, have gone to great lengths to cultivate meaningful relationships with their hair stylists.
Back in my teens we had the ‘burger cut’, named after the so-called ‘burgers’ (slang for Westernised elite). There were other hairdos that were considered trendy. In 1991, the movie
Was released and every boy wanted a hair style like John Connor’s (played by Edward Walter Furlong) — a side part with a long fringe on the other side. A similar thing happened when
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Was released in 1997 and Leonardo DiCaprio made us believe that long locks will make you a hit with the ladies. It didn’t.
It wasn’t just Hollywood movie stars that inspired hair style trends. Haircuts of Indian movie stars, local musicians, cricketers and even popular wrestlers of the WWF (now WWE) were all copied — much to the exasperation of our parents. But we weren’t doing anything new.
Back in my teens we had the ‘burger cut’, named after the so-called ‘burgers’ (slang for Westernised elite). There were other hairdos that were considered trendy. When Titanic was released in 1997, Leonardo DiCaprio made us believe that long locks will make you a hit with the ladies. It didn’t.
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Hair has always been a prized possession and whether it was Waheed Murad’s side part or Dev Anand’s slicked quiff, men have tried their hand at various hair styles. The fibrous follicles on top of our head are the crowning glory for many gents and the foundation of a 20 billion dollar industry.
Nature intended hair as insulation from heat and cold, and enhancing our sense of touch. For centuries, however, tresses have reflected whatever their owner thinks is going to make him popular with the opposite sex. Love is truly in the hair.
There is no denying that a good haircut is a sheer delight and Karachi’s men go to great lengths for it. In the olden days, even among the fashionable crowd, there was a lingering social stigma towards a man who gave too much attention to his hair. Most people had the notion that this is something a ‘real’ man shouldn’t do.
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Grooming was what horses used to get but the modern male wants to maintain good hair and visits the barber every week even though his hair only grows 0.44 mm per day — indicative of a paradigm shift in men’s approach towards hair.
There are a growing number of people who not only take pride in maintaining expensive hairdos but also consider it a pleasurable activity. Since the city’s humidity is bad for a carefully coiffed head it’s an uphill battle but those with hair are more than ready to cough up whatever their barbers feel like charging for their services.
Tony, the barber at Super Cuts in Saddar, says, “We used to have one person coming every month or six weeks. Now they are here every 15 days and even after we have raised prices to 150 rupees for a simple cut and 250 rupees for a proper hairdo.”
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According to Tony, the most popular hairstyle is the ‘Ronaldo’ cut, named after the footballer Cristiano Ronaldo and derived from the Pompadour Haircut that was worn by Madame de Pompadour, the mistress of King Louis XV. The current version has hair shorn on the sides and kept luxuriously voluminous on top to be slicked back in a quiff. It’s easy to cut and maintain but requires frequent visits to the barber.
Hairstyles are fairly egalitarian: men from different socio-economic strata can all go for the same hairstyle and pay different rates. At Maskan Chowrangi in Gulshan-i-Iqbal, you can get the ‘Ronaldo’ for 110 rupees at a ‘salon’ under a lemon tree. For a bit more, barber Omar Rahi will be happy to give a head massage to calm any nerves.
He has competition from Axe Saloon which opened up close by just a few months back. It attracts a much younger crowd of 20-somethings who line up to pay 300 rupees for another popular style: a side part with very close trim on the other side. Majid Khan, a frequent customer, waited for over three hours last Eid to get his turn in the seat.
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Mushtaq at Victory Saloon, Teen Talwar, is always in great demand for his way around a comb and scissor. His customers are mostly PTI fans and in 2013 many asked for Imran Khan’s bouffant. For 150 rupees he can fashion a hairstyle for any political hopeful who has a dream of
Victory does brisk business and so does its rival Balis, opposite Uzma’s Shopping Plaza in Clifton, where Fawwad Nomani charges 50 rupees more. Fawwad has calloused hands from holding scissors for years and keeps his customers happy by copying whatever they come up with.
“In the past, they would bring magazines and photos but now they just download anything from the internet and show it to me. I do my best and mashallah no complaints yet, ” he said.
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It seems no matter which way you cut it, hair saloons are all in the black and their customers are ever-growing. A good barber is now among the close coterie of associates for any male no matter what the economic conditions are. An unemployed guy getting a fade cut says it is the best: “Sure my life isn’t perfect but my hair is.”
What exactly are some of the latest trends in men’s hair in Lahore? Is it short? Is it long? Are spikes still in? The mutual answer every salon in the city offered was: the undercut.
Quite the rage for a few years now, this haircut entails longer hair on the top of the head and the sides and uber-short at the back. You lose some hair, but gain many more style points. And this isn’t even something developed just recently; it goes way back to the ’20s after which it kept appearing in different eras in different forms.
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“The undercut has been the most in demand for over four
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